Short answer: in a typical campervan solar setup, the Anderson (SB50) connector belongs between your solar input and your leisure battery — usually right after the charge controller, or as a quick-disconnect point on a portable panel — not spliced permanently into the wiring. It lets you unplug the panel or isolate the circuit in seconds, without cutting wires or fumbling with bare terminals, and it's rated well beyond what a typical van solar setup draws.
2026 is shaping up to be a big year for this exact question: the Camping and Caravanning Club's own trend predictions for the year point to more self-converted vans, more first-time builders, and more off-grid solar setups going in as standard rather than an upgrade — which means more people wiring this for the first time, often without knowing where a proper disconnect point should sit.
Where the connector actually goes
A typical campervan solar circuit looks like this: panel → charge controller → leisure battery → inverter/loads. The Anderson connector's job is to sit at a sensible break point in that chain — most commonly:
- Between a portable/foldable panel and the charge controller, so you can pack the panel away without unwiring anything.
- Between the charge controller and the leisure battery, giving you a single point to isolate the whole solar circuit for maintenance or winter storage.
It's not meant to replace permanent, properly glanded wiring for a fixed roof panel — for a panel that's bolted down and never moves, direct wiring (with its own isolator/fuse) is usually the better long-term choice. The Anderson connector earns its place wherever something needs to be connected and disconnected regularly.
Why SB50, and not something bigger
Most van solar setups — a single panel or small array feeding a leisure battery through an inverter under a couple of thousand watts — sit comfortably within SB50's 50A continuous rating on 16mm² cable. You'd only need to step up to SB175 territory if you were running a genuinely large off-grid system pulling well beyond typical campervan loads, which is uncommon outside specialist builds.
Shop: SB50 Anderson Connector Cable · Leisure & Solar collection
Getting the polarity and fusing right
A few basics that are easy to get wrong on a first build:
- Anderson connectors are genderless but not polarity-proof — the housing shape means you need to assemble the two halves correctly (positive contact in the correct slot on both ends) before you crimp, not after.
- Fuse the circuit close to the battery, not just at the panel end — the connector itself isn't a protective device.
- Match your cable gauge to the connector, not just the run length — 16mm² is the standard pairing for SB50; thinner cable causes voltage drop even if it physically fits the connector.
Frequently asked questions
Where does the Anderson connector fit in a campervan solar circuit?
Most commonly between a portable panel and the charge controller, or between the charge controller and the leisure battery — wherever you want a quick, toolless disconnect point rather than permanent wiring.
Do I need a fuse near the Anderson connector?
The connector isn't a protective device itself — fuse the circuit close to the battery as you normally would, sized to your cable and expected load.
Can I use Anderson connectors for both solar input and load output?
Yes, but keep them clearly labelled or physically separated — accidentally connecting the wrong two ends together on a live system is a real (and avoidable) mistake on van builds with multiple Anderson points.
What size solar setup needs SB50, and when would I need something bigger?
A single panel or small array feeding a leisure battery and inverter under a couple of thousand watts sits well within SB50's 50A rating. Larger off-grid systems beyond typical campervan loads would need to be assessed individually rather than assumed.
Is my portable solar panel compatible with SB50?
Many portable panels ship with Anderson-style connectors already, but check the actual amp rating and connector size stated by the panel manufacturer before assuming — some smaller panels use different connector standards (like MC4) that would need an adapter.
How do I add an Anderson connector to an existing solar setup?
Cut into the run at your chosen disconnect point, crimp on matching SB50 housings (or use ready-made leads with terminals already fitted), and check polarity on both halves before you reconnect the circuit.
Planning a van solar build and not sure where the disconnect points should go? Get in touch — happy to talk through it before you order.